La Manzanilla

Ocean, glorious sunsets, and creative energy

Long Silence

It's been a while since I had the chance to post here. The fall has been very busy. My daughters and their activities have swept me up in their whirlwind. If I'm not busy with work, I'm usually driving them somewhere. Full-time momming while also working doesn't leave me much time. I have been looking forward to revisiting this trip from last spring (March 2025) and putting it into words.

The past year's journey to Mexico (April 2024) felt transformative and there was much I wanted to go back and explore. Getting a week away from my regular responsibilities (momming, adulting, working, etc.), which are often all consuming is such a welcome relief. Having time to just be, relax and create, feels a little like heaven. The load I carry is often heavy, so having a chance to put it down for a while is very needed.

Heading to the beach

The beach was calling me, so I decided to start my trip there. When I was in Mexico City last year, I made a friend who has a beach hotel in the coastal town of La Manzanilla in Jalisco. He posted a lot of pictures of it on Instagram and it looked so inviting that I decided to go there.

It's called Cocuña , and it was built over the last two years through a collective family effort. The vision is to create a restorative, joyful and relaxing environment. The name, Cocuña, is a reference to the idea of a cocoon, a soft place you can feel safe, rest, and transform.

“The butterfly is proof that you can go through a great deal of darkness and still become something beautiful.” – Unknown

Cocuña from the beach looking towards the bar.

La Manz and Costalegre

The town of La Manzanilla (La Manz) is on the southern end of the Costalegre (Coast of Joy), which covers the coast of the states of Jalisco and Colima, stretching from Puerto Vallarta down to Manzanillo. La Manz is in the state of Jalisco, which is known for two of the most iconic features of Mexican culture, tequila and mariachi music, both of which come from the highlands.

Costalegre is a richly biodiverse area with many pristine beaches. Sea turtles, whales, dolphins, crocodiles, and iguanas can all be found along the coast. There is a wide array of different species of birds, shore birds, tropical birds, water fowl, migrating birds and so many more. One of the big things La Manz is known for is its Cocodrilario, which is an estuary and home to a thriving population of American crocodiles (Crocodylus acutus).

“Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.” 
– Gary Snyder

Protecting the estuary and mangrove forest is very important to the community and they have worked hard for years to ensure it is a safe home for all the wildlife of the area. It was designated an official Ramsar wetland in 2008, which is a wetland of international importance, with the intent of preserving the ecosystem for the crocodiles and all the other creatures that live in the area or migrate through.

The Cocodrilario La Manzanilla, a Ramsar wetland.

Sanctuaries

Staying right next to an environmental sanctuary is perfect for me and I was excited to see the crocodiles and learn about them, and see what birds live in the mangroves. How wonderful for a community to preserve an ecosystem for its own sake and the well-being of the creatures and plants that live there!

For some people, saving a predator species like a crocodile might seem strange, because they have sharp teeth and can kill, but they are an important part of life. They've survived through many eras of evolution on earth going all the way back to the time of the dinosaurs and they are a keystone species in their ecosystems. When they are protected everything else is protected, too.

“Crocodiles are easy. They try to kill and eat you. People are harder. Sometimes they pretend to be your friend first.” – Steve Irwin

Crocodile Myths, Symbolism & Facts

There are many ancient myths around the world that center around crocodiles. In Aztec mythology, the crocodile was represented by Cipactli, which was a sea monster that was slain by Quetzalcoatl and Tezcatlipoca. They used its body to create the world, the heavens and the underworld. As a result of this it is considered a symbol of creativity and fertility. American crocodiles also reproduce at high rates averaging around 40 eggs per clutch.

Because they live both above and below the water (heavens and underworld) they are often thought of as a symbol of the unconscious mind which holds all that is lurking under the surface, which may be a danger to ourselves. Some other qualities they represent are strength, resilience, transformation, protection, intuition, and instincts.

Crocodiles are often still but when they pounce watch out! An interesting side note is that large crocodiles can go a whole year without eating, although it is not very common for them to do that. They generally eat on average, weekly. I guess once they're hungry, they're really, really hungry.

The Great White Heron didn't seem scared. Maybe she saw this one snacking recently.

Arriving in town

When I arrived in La Manzanilla I was very tired, so I checked into my room and went straight to sleep for a couple of hours. I slept very, very deeply. After that I got up and looked for somewhere to eat. I was starving! It was on the early side for dinner and the late side for lunch, so I walked along the main drag seeing what was open and had vegan options at this in-between hour. 

As I neared the end of the strip, I walked into a place, Lora Loka, and told the owner I was vegan, and she made me some delicious little veggie taquitos. I was so happy to find it after not seeing any vegetarian (definitely not vegan!) items on the other restaurant menus.

“Every sunset brings the promise of a new dawn.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson

Magical Welcome

Walking back to the hotel, as I arrived it was turning to dusk and as I walked on the sand I heard people cheering. A mama whale and her baby were breaching as the sun was going down. I got to see them both as they launched themselves out of the water and crash back down. Although I can't speak for the whales, it seems like an expression of joy to me. What a wonderful welcome!

There were a few people gathering at the bar, and there was my friend, Juan, making cocktails. I walked over and he welcomed me and made me a delicious margarita which is a great way to start off a vacation. It was fun to meet some of the regulars and learn about the community.

An artwork inspired by my first sunset in La Manzanilla.

Visiting the Crocodiles

The next day I woke up and went to go see the crocodiles. On my way there, looking through the mangroves I saw what looked like one on the wooden pathway that surrounds the lagoon. Hmm, I wondered, are they supposed to be there? Isn't the pathway safe from the crocodiles. After paying the entry fee I looked out on the water and saw dozens of crocodiles.

The crocodiles were so still. One even had its mouth gaping wide open. A heron was standing nearby, not worried at all. Its skin was the color of the sand and the trees surrounding the water. They blended perfectly into their environment, like very dangerous floating logs. With full big bellies, these crocodiles didn't look like they were having any trouble finding food, not to fat shame them or anything.

Sometimes when there's a lot of rain and the ocean is high, the crocodiles go out of the estuary for a little while to enjoy the sea. Once they have had their adventure they go back into the lagoon where they are comfortable.

Facing Fears

After perusing the visitor center I continued my walk around the estuary. Mangroves surrounded the path. Beautiful birds flew in and out. A few solitary crocs rested away from the others. The wooden pathway leads to a rope bridge that goes over the lagoon. A sign above it warns visitors not to jump on the bridge. There is no way in hell that I ever would do that!!!

Taking a deep breath, I walked onto the gently swaying bridge. I'm not going to lie, I felt a little nervous, but also excited. Stopping in the middle to have a quick look, it seemed quiet and peaceful but a little scary. What if the bridge fell apart right at that very moment and I fell into the lagoon? Ahhhhh!!

This is part of the pathway that surrounds the Cocodrilario.

Then I remembered the crocodile on the path I saw from the road. I wondered if it was still there? Turning a corner I saw it being really, really, really still. Should I continue or turn back? This could be the end of me... I felt pretty sure there would be a warning from the people at the Cocodrilario Center, if there was danger. I walked a little closer and saw that it was statue made of concrete. Whew, what a relief!

Stories in the sand

Walking back to the hotel, I decided to go for a stroll on the beach. The sand spread out in a long arc to the cliffside in the distance. A few weeks before I arrived a business further down caught on fire and burned down. The community got together and raised money to help the people who worked there and the owner who had just lost his business.

Passing the remnants of an older abandoned hotel, I wondered about its story. Was it once a popular destination? Did the owners go bankrupt? I love learning the stories of people and places. Visiting a new place, learning about it and meeting people is what I really enjoy about travel. Making new friends and having them share some of their story with you is a gift.

Night of the Iguana

Near the end of the beach, I looked up and saw a house/hotel perched on a cliff that looked like it came right out of the movie/play "Night of the Iguana" by Tennessee Williams. This is one of my favorite plays and I've watched the movie many times. The setting is a seaside location on the Pacific Coast of Mexico just like this, but closer to Puerto Vallarta.

The hotel straight out of Night of the Iguana

I won't go into too much detail here, but in it a few characters are going through a dark night of the soul together, struggling with their circumstances, flaws, limitations and the pain of the world they inhabit. 

The Characters

One is a disgraced preacher, the Reverend T. Lawrence Shannon. A man with a spiritual bent, he leads tour groups and keeps succumbing to his lust for the young women he guides. Another is Hannah Jelkes, a watercolor artist traveling with her grandfather, a poet, who is close to death. They are broke and fund their travels through selling her watercolors and the grandfather giving poetic recitations. To stay at the hotel, this one night, they have to rely on the begrudging generosity of the recently widowed owner, Maxine Faulks.

It hadn't occured to me to connect the play with my trip to La Manzanilla until I saw that hotel on the cliff. Then it smacked me right in the face. 

“We make a home for each other, my grandfather and I. Oh, I don't mean a regular home; because, I don't regard a home as a - place, a building, bricks, wood, stone. I think of a home - as something two people have between them. In which each can - nest, rest, live in - emotionally speaking.” – Tennessee Williams (Hannah Jelkes, character)

Coincidentally, right next to the cliffside hotel is another little wetland called, Boca de Iguanas. It's not nearly as big as the Cocodrilario estuary but it's similar in that it joins the ocean when the water is high. I didn't see any iguanas, but I know they are  there.

Heading back to the hotel

Walking back I saw shorebirds running along the water's edge looking for food. It brought up thoughts of my grandparents who made sculptures of shorebirds together. My grandfather would carve them and my grandmother (Fuzz) would paint them. I have one that they made of an avocet on my mantel. 

When I arrived back at the hotel Juan had made some delicious tosados with a vegan ceviche made of rehydrated soy (TVP), with avocado on top. I sat at the bar eating them and talked a little with the people who were gathering, and of course the wonderful friendly bartender. They were delicious! I tried to not wolf down the food too fast and to appreciate each bite. 

Delicious vegan ceviche tosadas by Juan

Exquisite Sunsets

The sunset was starting and it was beautiful. Every day I was there the sun went down a little differently and each one was glorious and unique in its own way. The very first one had the whales breaching, the next was soft, gentle, and warm. One  was utterly spectacular in its show of fiery oranges, searing pinks and fluffy purples. My final sunset in La Manzanilla,  the whole sky turned orange, and the sun hung like a white orb on the horizon surround by a golden ring.

Seeing these magnificent sunsets deeply inspired me. My goal on this trip was to rest, relax and spend time making art. The whole bottom half of my suitcase was packed with art supplies. On the previous trip, I was busy seeing art, learning about history and culture, on this trip I wanted to paint.

Since returning home I've made a few works of art inspired by the sunsets of La Manzanilla. Having the time to just rest, be, and paint was such a welcome gift. This trip was a continuation and an advancement of my previous trip to Mexico where I reconnected with myself and continued healing.

The community

Winter is the busy season in La Manz, with a lot of people escaping the cold to enjoy the beauty and warmth of Mexico. The early spring when I visited is slower, more of an in-between season. Many snowbirds have migrated back to homes in the north but a few were still there.

Around the bar many of the people I met either lived in the town or visited seasonally and so were familiar with each other and the area. It makes for a more meaningful experience where I could learn about the community and hopefully contribute something positive as someone passing through. I got to hear stories of people and the community and to share a little of mine. This was a beautiful part of the experience.

Staying put

Although I rented a car to get from Manzanillo to La Manz once I arrived and parked it didn't move it until the morning I left. Instead I walked everywhere. To the beach to the stores, to get food. When I wasn't walking, mostly I rested and painted. I really enjoy being car-free sometimes.

If I had been in a more ambitious spirit I may have driven up the coast to see Careyes, which is a luxurious resort that is art-focused founded by an eccentric Italian businessman which hosts an annual Burningman-esque festival. Or I would've gone out for a fancy meal at the Four Seasons Tamarindo and maybe walk around their grounds if it is allowed, but I just wasn't interested in doing any of that on this trip. Maybe on a return visit I will make more of an effort to explore a little farther out but I'm finding that I often prefer doing less.

That's a wrap

It all went by so fast and soon I was leaving for CDMX to see things I missed, which I was also really looking forward to. There is always so much to see, do, and experience there. Leaving early in the morning I said goodbye to the ocean and went on my way. Having time at the beach nourishes me in so many ways.

On a future trip to Mexico, I am hoping to visit Oaxaca. A college roommate of mine traveled there and I helped draw the design for her tattoo that features a circle of the mountains of Oaxaca surrounding a fish. It will be interesting to see what I was once only imagining.

A lot of people have recommended that I go to Ajijic, which is also in Jalisco and is next to Lake Chapala. So maybe I'll go there, too.

“The ache for home lives in all of us.” – Maya Angelou